Unplanned Germany

Ironically, given my profession as a Project/Program Manager, the one solid conclusion that I reached during my travels was that plans are nice, but are unlikely to be realized exactly as intended. So I find myself in Germany rather than northern Spain drinking beer rather than Spanish wine. Very fine but unexpected. My German, I must point out is even worse than my Spanish, which us to say, non-existant.

My wonderful hosts, Wolfgang and Montse, have shown me all around their region of Bavaria in a sort of 'Camino light' tour. We've walked about 10km each day, visited beautiful churches, local breweries and eaten very well, thanks to Montse's exceptional cooking.  Turns out there is actually a path to Santiago from here, a mere 2850km away, or about 4 months walking. Maybe another year...

Pictures are (in reverse order it turns out) of the interior of a Rococo style basilica, Camino (or St. James way) waymarker, inside brewery with Wolfgang, famous Schlenkerla guest house/brewery in Bamberg,  old chapel (first built 1250) with Montse.

Odds and Ends

For my final Spanish Camino blog post, I have few, random observations about Spain from my Camino experience.

The Spanish economy is a mystery to me. Unemployment has been over 25% since 2008 yet at any given hour in any given bar/cafe/restaurant you will find people, often lots of them. Real estate prices have dropped over 50% since 2008, yet there are 'For Sale' signs on the most dilapidated, run-down, decrepit properties I have ever seen. Is everybody sharing a common illusion of economic wealth or do they just subscribe to the 'make the most of a bad situation' philosophy?

Accommodations were generally quite good and some were exceptional but one thing that seemed to be consistent was the inconsistency of the Spanish rating system. Two of the worst hotels I stayed in were rated 3* while a few of the best had no *s. Feedback from TripAdvisor or booking.com was much more reliable. Once in Galicia a new type of accommodation became available: Casa Rurals. These were similar to B&Bs without the breakfast. I stayed in one that could have been a former castle and another that likely began its life as a barn (pictured).

Regions in Spain had many more differences than I expected including different languages (Basque, Catalan, Castellano), different customs and different food. I loved the different Spanish wines, pinchos (kind of like mini tapas), seafood paella, grilled trout and sardines, thick Galician caldo soup, Santiago torte and so much more.  Alas, my love of eating surpassed my calorie burning walking and I have actually gained weight on this trip!

End of the world

It is tradition, apparently, to end ones Camino by continuing on to Finisterre and celebrating the end of wearing geeky hiking clothes by burning them. Purifying, symbolic and, I can report, extremely satisfying.

I've not checked my sources on this but it seems likely that before Columbus discovered America, the end of the world to Spaniards was Finisterre.  Looking west one sees the Atlantic ocean and nothing else. The Spanish equivalent of, say, Tofino. It also boasts the windy, rainy and foggy weather of Tofino - except on the day of our visit which was hot, sunny and incredibly lovely.

A visit to the beach, walk up to the lighthouse, symbolic fire & a fantastic seafood lunch was a decadent and wonderful way to end the Camino.

I have more to write about my Camino experience & will attempt to post some catch-up blogs over the next week while in Germany visiting my Camino companion, Wolfgang.

Churches

Yes! I have arrived in Santiago and the end of the Caminos. Well, technically one can continue on to Finisterre and beyond but the Santiago Cathedral and the grave of the Apostle St. James is the prime reason pilgrims have made this a 'destination Camino' for hundreds of years. In modern times pilgrims also travel for sport, adventure, tourism and a host of other reasons but for many, it seems, spirituality or religion remain the primary driver for their journey.

In that spirit, this blog features churches (and cathedrals and monestaries).

 According to my 'All Countries' app, 94% of Spanish people are Roman Catholic and, from what I have seen,  there are no shortage of places for them to worship. Until we reached the region of Galicia even the tiniest of towns, with current populations, for example, numbering less than 100, had a church in the center of town (village, hamlet) often with a stunning gold altarpiece.  Many of these dated from the 12th to 15th centuty. Perhaps this is where one can find some of the riches from the new world?

Galicia is definitely different. Poorer, with more agriculture and a visible Celtic influence. Churches have been fewer in number and more humble in construction and decor, although very lovely in a different way. Obviously there are exceptions to this and the Santiago Cathedral (not pictured) is one of these.

I hadn't intended to tour the Benedictine Monestary in Samos, but events transpired to make it possible and it was definitely worth a visit. The monestary is one of the oldest and largest in Spain and is quite amazing but what is most astonishing is that it is maintained by only 14 monks, 4 of whom are over 80!

Choices

After starting out many weeks ago on May 10, I am due to arrive in the fabled Santiago de Compostela tomorrow, June 10.  I feel a little like Dorothy on her way to Oz where all my questions will be answered.  Thus far,  I must report that the experience has been great but the epiphanies few.

Actually there are many different pilgrim routes to Santiago but even on the same route there are many choices to be made that can have a huge impact an individual's experience.  Lets start with mode of transport, a question asked of pilgrims in Rocancesvalles, our first stop in Spain. Many walk, some cycle, and a few, as offered on the questionnaire, ride horses.  Walking makes it easier to meet and chat with other walkers enroute but does contribute to the 'Camino limp', blisters and other more serious injuries that I've seen walkers sustain.

Choice of accommodation can also have a big impact.  I had thought that almost all pilgrims stayed in the cheap albergues (pilgrim hostels) that dot the route.  Turns out that all of the hotels I've stayed in have also been filled with pilgrims. Some of these have even booked through travel services that arrange for hotels, meals and luggage transport between stops. If I had known about (and could afford) this luxury service I'm sure I would have been tempted.

Some pilgrims do the Camino in stages or do only part of the Camino. Some travel in groups but many travel solo.  Some take buses or taxis when tired or during bad weather, others wouldn't think of doing so.

Doing the Camino 'my way' hasn't been as unusual as I thought it would be. And that's just fine with me!

Pictures are of the trail today lined with fragrant eucalyptus trees, the amazing hotel I stayed in last night, scenery from the Galician province where the rainbow portended daily rain showers and O'Cebreiro village.

The Way

As part of my trip preparation I spent hours reading and taking notes from John Brierley's classic Camino guidebook. I had imagined that following the Camino would require exceptional diligence and map reading skills, and perhaps at one time it did.  I can report, however, that following the Camino (at least so far) has been incredibly easy (and that my time would have been better spent learning Spanish).

For one thing, there are usually dozens of pilgrims ahead of me to follow. For another, I have been told that there has been a large influx of EU money in support of Camino improvements. While this has not resulted in the availability of bathroom faciluties along the trail, it does seem to have produced excellent signage and visible upgrades to many of the small and seemingly deserted villages along the route.   Finally, people seem very eager to help and will quickly make it known to you if you stray from the path. I assume this is done for the best of reasons and not to keep the oddly dressed pilgrims away from the hidden and best restaurants.

Today's walk took us to O'Cebreiro, a special place on the Camino and a tourist destination in its own right. The expansive views from the mountaintop village were hidden by the fog but it was still very interesting and almost magical.

Pictures today are of several examples of the many different types of waymarkers along the Camino.

The Path

One of the surprises for me on the Camino was the many different types of paths that comprise the trail. We've walked on paved roads, narrow stony paths, sandy and muddy trails, flat 'sendas' or walking paths that parallel highways. Some of these road conditions make it much harder for cyclists than hikers so if you're planning to cycle the Camino, be warned.

 I packed 2 pairs of running shoes thinking I could alternate each day. Turns out there is as good reason hiking boots as I've found my runners haven't really been great on the winding, ascending and descending large stony trails. Thank goodness for blister bandages and the inspiration of many older pilgrims who are gamely navigating the challenging trails with many more health issues to overcome than blisters.

Yesterday we were finally off the Meseta (plain) and back into the mountains. Beautiful but definitely more strenuous. Pictures are samples of the path from different parts of the Camino.